ENGRAULIS ENCRASICHOLUS


I use the scientific term because in Spain it is known by different names, depending on the region you are in and how it is prepared. 

This small fish was abundant in the Mediterranean and part of the Atlantic Ocean. Nowadays, unfortunately, it has become quite scarce.

In the following Spanish regions: Aragón, Burgos, Navarra, País Vasco, Rioja and Segovia it is called "Anchoa". In Galicia, Asturias and Cantabria it's called "Bocarte". In most of these places, when it is raw it is known as "boquerón". 

The anchovy is similar to the sardine, but it is narrower, with a sharper head and irregular black markings on the body. Those of the Atlantic and Cantabrian coasts are larger than the Mediterranean ones. 

Semi-preserved ones are eaten and served in salads, etc. They could be equivalent to the Roman "Garum", because they are also good to flavor other fish when they are in oil and add a little vinegar and bay leaves. They are a delicatessen in oil and properly salted or fried, crispy on the outside, and juicy on the inside (the Malagueños are masters in frying fish). For a long time, until the Anisakis became a plague, in Madrid they were eaten raw in tons of escabeche, in parsley and garlic. I recognize the virtues of this small fish when it is fresh and the excellent ones of the Costa Brava region, but I must say that I feel a particular weakness for Cantabria's olive oil. With good bread, they are delicious and become sublime in a good "Pa am tomaquet". Another possibility is to cut slices of fresh cheese (better if it is cow and not aged) and put the anchovy fillets with a little oil ... or in a sandwich with slices of cucumber... 

They should never be completely removed from their oil and should always keep them in oil in the refrigerator, as they are semi-preserved. However, it is recommendable to temper them a little before consumption. 

In my opinion, one of the best brands of anchovies in olive oil in Cantabria are those of San Filippo or those of DonBocarte, you can find them in delicatessen shops. The price due to the shortage of the fish is expensive (around 36 euros the round flat can) but they are worth it. You can also find a good quality cheaper flat tin (15 Eur) in Mercadona Spanish supermarkets. They are properly salted and the taste is also great. 

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